Deep-dive from How Foundations Get Fixed: Repair Methods in Plain English
A concrete slab that's settled — a garage floor with a sunken section, a driveway panel that's dropped, a front walk that's created a trip hazard, a patio that no longer drains properly — doesn't have to be torn out and replaced. In many cases it can be lifted back toward level by filling the void that opened up under it.
That's what slab lifting does. Two methods do it: mudjacking, which has been around for decades, and polyurethane foam injection, which has become the preferred method for most applications in the last fifteen years. Both work; they work differently and suit different situations.
Same note as the piers article: Precision Remodel refers slab lifting to trusted specialist contractors. This guide gives you the context to evaluate the recommendation and ask the right questions.
What causes slabs to settle
A concrete slab sits on a base layer of compacted soil or gravel. When that base shifts, the slab follows — or in many cases, the slab stays put while the support disappears beneath it, creating a void.
Common causes in Maryland:
Poorly compacted fill under the slab. Garages, additions, and slabs built over excavated and backfilled areas are especially vulnerable. If the fill wasn't properly compacted at the time of pour, it settles over years as it consolidates under load.
Soil erosion from water. Water running under a slab washes fine soil particles away, creating voids. Downspouts that discharge near a slab, poor grading that channels water under edges, and plumbing leaks are all common sources. This is one of the most dramatic void-creation mechanisms — and the most important to address before lifting.
Clay soil shrinkage in dry seasons. Maryland's expansive clay pulls away from slab edges and loses volume under dry conditions, leaving gaps the slab can't bridge.
Freeze-thaw cycling. Ice formation beneath slab edges can lift sections; when the ice thaws, the slab may not return to its original position.
Organic decomposition. Tree roots, old wood forms left in place, and other organic material in the soil can decompose over decades, leaving voids.
Mudjacking: the traditional method
Mudjacking (also called slab jacking or pressure grouting) has been used since the 1930s. The method is simple: a slurry of cement, soil, and water is pumped through holes drilled in the slab, filling the void beneath and pushing the slab upward.
The process:
- Holes approximately 1.5–2 inches in diameter are drilled through the slab at strategic locations
- The cement slurry is pumped under pressure through the holes
- As the slurry fills the void, it pushes the slab upward
- When the slab reaches the target elevation, pumping stops
- Holes are patched with concrete
Advantages:
- Less expensive than polyurethane in material cost
- Material is environmentally inert (cement/soil mix)
- Well-established, proven technique
Disadvantages:
- The fill material is heavy — sometimes 100+ pounds per cubic foot — which adds load to soil that already couldn't support the slab
- The slurry can wash out over time if the water source that caused the original erosion hasn't been fixed
- Larger drill holes required (1.5–2 inches vs. 5/8 inch for foam)
- Longer cure time before the slab can be used
- Not suitable for slabs near plumbing, landscaping, or structures that can't accommodate the drill holes
Polyurethane foam: the modern method
Polyurethane foam injection (also called polyjacking, foam lifting, or PolyLevel) has become the preferred method for most residential slab lifting applications. Two-part polyurethane foam is injected through small holes and expands aggressively to fill the void and lift the slab.
The process:
- Small holes — approximately 5/8 inch in diameter — are drilled through the slab
- Two-part polyurethane components are injected through a mixing nozzle
- The components react and expand into a rigid closed-cell foam, filling the void and pushing the slab up
- The operator monitors elevation in real time and stops when the target is reached
- Holes are patched; foam reaches full cure within 15–30 minutes
Advantages:
- Lightweight — foam weighs about 2–4 pounds per cubic foot, adding minimal load to already compromised soil
- Fast cure — the slab can usually bear light traffic within 30–60 minutes
- Small drill holes cause minimal surface disruption
- Foam is hydrophobic and won't wash out the way a cement slurry can
- Precise — operator can control the lift closely and stop at target elevation
- Longer lasting in conditions where water caused the original erosion
Disadvantages:
- Higher material cost than mudjacking
- Requires trained operators with proper equipment — more quality variation between contractors
- Foam is not biodegradable (an environmental consideration, though stable and inert in place)
- In very large voids, cost can be high because material cost scales with void volume
Which method is right?
For most Maryland residential applications — garage floors, driveways, walks, patios — polyurethane foam is the better choice for several reasons specific to the local environment:
Maryland's clay soil is already under load from the slab. Adding 100+ pounds per cubic foot of mudjack slurry to soil that already couldn't support the slab adds weight and can cause new settlement adjacent to the lifted area. Foam adds almost none.
Water-caused erosion is the most common void-creation mechanism in Maryland (rain, poor drainage, downspout discharge). A fill material that can wash out (mudjacking slurry) is a poor match for conditions likely to re-expose the slab to water. Foam doesn't wash out.
The only clear case for mudjacking is cost sensitivity on a job where the slab conditions are good (no ongoing water issue, stable soil), the hole size doesn't matter, and cure time isn't a factor.
Neither method is appropriate when:
- The slab is structurally compromised (cracked through its full depth with significant displacement, large sections missing, badly deteriorated concrete)
- The underlying cause of the void hasn't been fixed — lifting a slab without addressing the water infiltration or drainage problem that caused the void results in re-settlement
- The foundation footings have settled (that requires piering, not slab lifting)
What slab lifting cannot do
It cannot repair slab damage. Cracks in the slab, spalling, scaling, or structural deterioration aren't addressed by lifting — only the elevation problem is.
It cannot fix the cause. A slab lifted without fixing the drainage problem, plumbing leak, or other cause of the void will re-settle. The fix must include addressing the cause.
It cannot work on badly deteriorated slabs. If the concrete itself is too far gone — brittle, crumbling, cracked into many pieces — it can't be lifted; it needs to be replaced.
It's not for heaved slabs. Heave (a slab pushed up by expanding soil) is the opposite problem. Foam or mudjacking won't push a heaved slab back down — that requires waiting for the soil to dry and contract, or in severe cases, removing the slab, addressing the soil, and repouring.
Realistic cost expectations in Maryland
Slab lifting costs vary more by job geometry than by method, because both methods price primarily on the volume of material used and the area and number of holes drilled.
General ranges:
- Small job (one settled section, a step, a few feet of walk): $500–$1,500
- Medium job (garage floor section, patio area): $1,500–$3,500
- Large job (full garage floor, long driveway): $3,000–$6,000+
Polyurethane typically costs 10–30% more than mudjacking for equivalent scope, reflecting higher material costs. On most jobs, the difference is a few hundred dollars — generally worth it for the reasons discussed above.
Compare slab lifting to replacement: tearing out and repouring a 2-car garage floor in Maryland can cost $4,000–$10,000+. Lifting the settled section for $1,500–$2,500 is usually the better economic choice if the concrete itself is in decent condition.
Questions to ask a slab lifting contractor
- Which method are you proposing, and why for this specific situation?
- Have you identified what caused the void, and is that cause being addressed?
- What is the drilling pattern — how many holes and where?
- How do you monitor and control the lift?
- What's the target elevation and how is it established?
- What's the warranty on the work?
- Is the slab in good enough condition to lift, or should we discuss replacement?
The one-page summary
- Slab lifting fills the void under a settled slab and uses that fill to push the slab back toward level — doesn't tear out and replace.
- Mudjacking uses a heavy cement slurry — less expensive in material, larger holes, longer cure, heavier fill.
- Polyurethane foam uses lightweight expanding foam — faster cure, smaller holes, hydrophobic (won't wash out), better for Maryland's water-prone conditions.
- Foam is generally preferred for Maryland residential applications — lighter load on already-compromised soil, better water resistance.
- Fix the cause first — lifting without fixing the water/drainage source means re-settlement.
- Slab lifting works on settled slabs, not heaved ones, not badly deteriorated ones, not foundation footings.
- Cost vs. replacement: typically $500–$6,000 for lifting vs. $4,000–$10,000+ to tear out and repour.
- Precision Remodel refers this work to trusted specialists.